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Out With The New, In With The Old

31 Dec

This image from the Vancouver riots seems somehow appropriate for 2011. Almost makes me wish I'd been there. Almost makes me wish it (probably) wasn't photoshopped.

By any measure this has been a tumultuous year, 2012 has a lot to live up to it seems. It’s going to need more than the Olympics and a pile of hogwash about the end of the Mayan calender to compete with what 2011 has thrown at our feet. The Arab spring, an increasingly introverted and suicidal Euro, the UK Economy being run by a bunch of public school boys who still don’t understand why the general population can’t simply inherit some money to ease their financial quibbles. In Britain we had riots, marches, fury, extensive government cuts and a Scottish government of increasing popularity making good their promise and laying the framework for the potential dismantling of the UK. In America they had their own economic woes, they had less money than Apple at one point, and then there was the 10th anniversary of 9/11. Europe finally caved and went begging to China for spare cash, everyone’s favourite EU leader Berlusconi sadly had to go due to his country managing to have some kind of anti-economy based solely on under age prostitution, ‘Bunga Bunga’ parties, whisky faking and bribery. Angela Merkel proved herself to be the Girl Guide of Europe, David Cameron failed to deny he was a Synthetic Android from the Alien film franchise and Nicholas Sarkozy remained short. China continued to become massiver and massiver and to ignore ever increasing grumbles about its rather lax attitude towards human rights, after all who cares what others think when you have that much disposable income. Greece finally collapsed after years of reliance on an economy based solely on plate breaking and Ireland still writhes in the grip of the great cappuccino famine of 2011. This was also the year of the phone hacking scandal where Rupert Murdoch and his underlings managed to create the buck that never stops. Dictators of the world fell like playing cards in a wind tunnel this year, who can forget the blood lusty, yet satisfying way Colonel Gaddafi was gunned down in the streen, HA! Happy times. The most recent one though was North Korea’s comedy miniature despot Kim Jong-il who died, we can only assume from reading his official biography, from the fact that he never defecated. An impressive feat although it did explain why he spoke utter shit for most of his life. His copycat fat son is everyone’s favourite to win Despots On Ice 2012. Oh, and Bin Laden got shot in the head by Navy Seals. Apparently the reason he wasn’t forcibly extracted back to US soil to stand trial was that he was defending himself with automatic loaded wives, or something like that according to a memo from the CIA. So, a tumultuous year all in all.

But what about the year in Whisky? Well as the above image suggests it was a very good  year for publicity stunts. Dalmore, Macallan, Glenfiddich, Old Pulteney, they all clambered over each other, slavering at the gums like hounds of the baskerville with marketing diplomas. Desperate to conquer the squalid back pages of the press with their fetid little bling bottlings, or to tell us that Jim Murray, the greatest gift to whisky since domestic violence, had endorsed their product with his latest super score. There were other things afoot in whisky as well with the ‘world’ whiskies starting to finally gain the recognition they deserve. People continued to complain about the Ardbeg Committee with staggering levels of naivety, as if it was actually supposed to be some kind of exclusive country club instead of a big, oily marketing engine that runs on raw, self perpetuating nonsense. Maybe in 2012 people will actually stop complaining and realise that it is the way it is and they can’t help it so just stop approaching me at festivals and complaining to me because I happened to work at the distillery for two summers while at uni as if that somehow means I can just call up someone at Moet Hennessey and ‘have a wee word’. Gosh it feels good to get things off your chest. In related Ardbeggy news, the great blender Rachel Barrie left Glenmorangie and headed to the Bowmore/Glen Garioch/Auchentoshan stable and proceeded to say some very encouraging things about future production methods, although I’m still waiting for a reply to a comment I made on her facebook status about doing some more peated Glen Garioch, time will tell. The rush for Port Ellen 11th release drove consumers into a frenzy of mindless violence that ended in further outbreaks of rioting throughout the whisky shops of Europe. Lady Gaga got five cases though.  Whiskyfun turned 9 this year on July 28th, selfishly only 8 days after my own birthday thereby overshadowing that event in the whisky calender for so many people. I’ll get you yet Valentin (shakes fist). There has been much speculation over what Serge will do once Whiskyfun turns 10. However we all know he will convert the site into an online scores auctioneering base where companies bid thousands of euros (or francs depending on how things are looking come August) a time for whatever score he is offering that week. The first score will be 98 points and we know Inverhouse are already putting together a bid for their new non-aged, Iron Bru finished An Cnoc. Good times ahead.

The Hadron Collider, a big player in the whisky scene of 2012? Also don't do what I just did and run a google image search for 'Large Hardon Collider' by mistake.

So what does 2012 hold for whisky? I suspect we will see even higher prices, more fakes, the pointlessness of the ‘most expensive bottle ever sold’ war will spiral into the cosmic belly button of utter despair and consume all who dare venture near, like a black hole of fat, sweaty bollocks. The German Independent Bottling market will continue to blossom providing the best whiskies and the best prices. Kilchoman will continue to get better with age. Richard Patterson will host a tasting in the Large Hadron Collider. Ralfy will move to Sky One. Joel and Neil from caskstrength.net will open for the Pope at Glastonbury. Fred and Stuart Laing will merge into a single, two-headed person like Zaphod Beeblebrox from the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy. The Port Ellen 12th release will be released in the style of Red Cross aid parcels in Ethiopia. UN soldiers will throw armfuls of them into baying crowds of angry whisky lovers armed to the teeth with pitchforks and ipads and just hope for the best while a representative from Diageo looks on via a satellite link up and calmly motions to his minions to begin ‘phase 2′. The Olympic opening ceremony will be sponsored by Bruichladdich, Jim McEwan and Boris Johnson will open the show with a beginners guide to Coopering. Octomore will be peated to 1 trillion ppm thus causing a tear in the space time continuum and creating what is known as a ‘phenolic irregularity’. Dave Broom will be the new Doctor Who companion and Martine Nouet will be the new Doctor Who. Daftmill will buy Diageo, George Osborne will retire from politics and re-open Brora with his vast personal fortune and Nick Clegg, finally overwhelmed by his spineless guilt, will commit suicide live on national television by downing a thousand miniatures of Edradour. So an exciting year for us all to look forward to.

Be sure to tune in for Nick Clegg's 'dram with destiny' in 2012.

On a personal note it is difficult to comment too succinctly on a  year that was racked by so much intensity, belt tightening, death and downright misery, purely because for me it was far and away the best year of my life. I travelled and made some of the best friends I’ve ever had, I found a great new job, moved into the best flat I’ve ever lived in with the best flatmate I’ve ever had and I’m in a position where things seem to be looking up. I am, in short, incredibly lucky and I try to realise it every day. So the final tasting of 2011 will be one themed around starting as you mean to go on, at least for as long as possible, I’m not sure how many more great Brora tastings I’ll be able to do..? A worrying thought indeed.

Brora 1970-2002. 32yo. Douglas Laing ‘Old & Rare’. 58.4%. 70cl. 

Huge thanks to Wayne for opening this beauty.

Colour: Straw Gold

Nose: Why do other distilleries bother making peated whisky? This is just another typically perfect early Brora. A myriad of farmyard, industrial, coastal and medical qualities with farminess taking the initial lead. Just beautiful! Opens up slowly with lemon skins, oils, mineral notes, pebbles, sea salt, camphor and tar. Sea air, brine, coal and a perfect underlying waxiness. It’s definitely leaning more towards coastal guises now. Lots of sea spray, lime juice, olive oil, seaweed, white flowers, sandalwood and tcp. It’s just massively fresh and vibrant. Just stunning, lets see if water can improve it even further… With water it just becomes almost hyper coastal, like raw sea water and oysters. Lemon juice, raw peat smoke, old kilns, iodine.

Palate: Massively oily on delivery, like boiler sheds, thick green peats, tar, peat oil, drying medicinal notes, smoked cereals, sea water, green olives in brine, hay, hessian and treacle. Smoked vanilla (?), chilli oatcakes, black pepper, Riesling, melted butter and chopped chives. Shellfish, crab meat, smoked mussels, fresh lemon juice, cured ham and more salt. With water: a really luxurious, elegant peat comes through now, loads of olive oil, bonfire smoke, burning grass, wax, smoked cereals, peppered mackerel and some wonderfully farmy notes of engine oil and horse stables.

Finish: Very long with drying peat smoke, wax, cereals, tar, white pepper, burnt toast, camphor and fish oil.

Comments: Another incredibly Brora, I think the 1970 and 71s were not quite as stellar as the 72s in my opinion. It seems like they were still experimenting and constantly tweaking the recipe, in 1972 they must have got things very right. However, this is all relative as this one is still galaxies ahead of most modern peated malts.

Score: 94/100

Brora 1972-1995. 22yo. OB Rare Malts. 61.6%. 70cl.

This is one of several truly legendary early Broras from the Rare Malts series.

Colour: Gold

Nose: Ouch! The word beast could have been invented for this one. Imagine a peat, honey, salt and turpentine smoothy and you’re not far off. Quite closed even after a long time in glass, aggressive and difficult but even with all that grumpy, miserly austerity it is still quite beautiful. Struck flints, big, raw mineral notes, hay, horse stables, burnt grass and old petrol cans. A true powerhouse whisky. I think we’ll add a bit of water straight away… with a little water it starts to freshen out a bit, salt, lemons, limes and a nice manure quality all start to make themselves felt. Becomes intensely ‘Brora’ with a huge farminess and notes of coal fires, seaweed, parsley and wax. Lets try another little bit of water: it actually got even better, now its super fresh, leafy, smoky and very medicinal. A stunning and perfect mix of all the classic Brora characters. This is one of those whiskies that swims like a fish, it absolutely needs careful time with water to bloom, but when it does, my god it’s magnificent.

Palate: Neat it is an aggressive bag of gravel, wet earth, green, concentrated peat oil and feisty minerals. Some farmyard hints of stables, hay, horses and tar then muesli, rope, wet leaves, coal and mercurochrome. With a first dilution… wow, a perfect profile, all on minty, leafy peats, all kinds of wax, a dazzling array of coastal notes and different oils. Perfect but lets try a little more water anyway… the peat gets even oilier, almost simmering like an old Ardbeg, oily, fat and mouth coating with a wonderfully farmy dirtiness. Superlative notes of seaweed, tar, tcp, bread, olive oil, brine, anchovies, kippers, black and green peppercorns, hummus, matchsticks and more salt. It’s quite incredible really, we’d best stop.

Finish: Ask me in 2013 how it’s coming along

Comments: I’ve wanted to taste this one for a long long time and, thanks to the generosity of Mr Brora (aka Serge) at D-Day I was finally able to. All I can say is these bottles are now expensive for a very good reason, they’re fucking brilliant whisky. Water is essential with this one, even adding it in increments it seems to change drastically with each new dilution. You could literally play for days if you had a full bottle, adding a little water, then a bit more whisky, seeing just how epic you could make it, mind the ‘ground zero’ of perfection if you like. There’s nothing being made anywhere in the world today in my opinion that can hold a candle to this kind of whisky. Maybe for 2012 the industry could look to the past a bit more for future inspiration.

Score: 96/100

Whatever happens next year I hope you can all become happier, wiser and more aware in everything you do and achieve. Enjoy the simple things in life, strive to make things better for yourself and all those around you. And above all, don’t take things too seriously.

Happy Hogmanay from all of us here at Whisky Online. Slante!

Angus. 31/12/2011

A Walk In The Park

25 Dec

HoHoHo Merry Christmas. Right, now that that’s out of the way we can get down to what really matters at this time of year, the true meaning of Christmas day and the tradition practised in households the world over. I speak of course about overindulgence. I was racking my brains about what to do for my Christmas day tasting this year. The selection is usually an organic one, very much dictated by what samples fortuitously come my way throughout the latter half of the year. I will often accrue an excess of particularly fine examples from one distillery or another and when I see this beginning to happen I tend to sit on these samples until a suitable occasion comes around for gorging on them all in one big dramgasm. So it seems that this year I have managed to grow a sizeable stash of top notch Highland Parks. Many of them are legendary drams that will need, like the distillery itself, little introduction. So without further ado, don your anti-maltporn, glare resistant Christmas googles, arrange yourself comfortably by the fire, turn your computer’s jealousy filters all the way up to eleven and lets proceed…

We’ll start old and work our way forwards…

Highland Park 1955-1985. 30yo. G&M for Intertrade. 216 bottles. 53.2%. 75cl. 

A legendary HP, one I’ve been dying to taste for several years now. Bottled in the year of my birth. Does that make 1985 a good year for whisky..?

Colour: Light Amber

Nose: It’s light at first, all on resinous polish, herb liqueurs and some wonderfully crusty seashore aromas. Leafy and fresh with notes of pine needles, earthy peat, cloves, orange liqueurs, menthol and sultanas. This one is a real slow burner, it’s really taking its time to unfold. Game, roast butter, dried herbs, hints of roast garlic, fruit squash, greengages, camphor and salt. Very nervous and beautiful with a wavering austerity that keeps everything on its toes. The peat becomes quieter with more focus on citrus and crystallised fruits with that soft lapping seashore character in the background. Further farmy/industrial notes of tar, hessian and stables begin to shine through. With water: softer notes of wax, tea, green fruits, minerals, wet earth, wild flowers, natural honey, coal dust, magnificent.

Palate: Fantastic and hugely complex delivery, masses of green olives, brine, sea water, oysters, orange juice, all kinds of liqueurs and subtle spice notes. Herbaceous, waxy, briny, phenolic and concentrated. Bitter orange marmalade, coriander seeds, liquorice, dark chocolate, mulled wine (very festive), damsons and citrus infused green tea. What a stunning profile. With water: wow! It became drier but also fuller and even more expressive, big luxurious notes of salted chocolate, roasted nuts, toast, more green and black olive flavours, seaweed, green peats and motor oil.

Finish: Long, leafy, peaty and starting to become also a bit smoky, like boiler smoke. More seashore freshness, greenery, seaweed, tea, crystallised citrus fruits and mineral notes. Beautiful.

Comments: A wee masterpiece. Displays everything that is brilliant about Highland Park. What a stunning whisky.

Score: 95/100

It should be noted that this in NOT the actual bottling but is from the same CASK series by G&M. The one I'm tasting was bottled under an identical label but the strength is 53.2% not 54.6% like the one pictured. I couldn't get a picture of the bottle I have the sample from so this is for illustration purposes.

Highland Park 1955. G&M CASK series. Bottled mid-late 1980s. 53.2%. 75cl. 

This one should be fascinating to taste against the Intertrade 55 because they are from the same bottler, same era and identical strengths. Same whisky? lets find out…

Colour: Amber (a tad darker than the intertrade)

Nose: Ok this is not the same whisky but its the same immediate quality. This one is all on freshly baked brown bread, heather, smoke, peat oils, boiler sheds and something like medicine liqueur. Super rich industrial and farmyard characters dominate at first nosing. Then we get notes of warm oatmeal, methol, antiseptic, tar and coal. This one is more up front and obvious but no less beautiful than the Intertrade. Starts to develop a more nervous citrus quality, lots of oranges and lemons manifest as marmalade, crystallised peel and liqueur qualities. This one feels like a bigger whisky than the Intertrade but the similarities are undeniable, could they be the same whisky just separated by their time in different bottles? Probably not but it’s fun to think about. With water: now it becomes even more minty, leafy and finally a stunningly soft and elegant coastal freshness envelops the whole thing. Ancient peat smoke, dried herbs, smoked garlic, heather smoke, eucalyptus and flowers. Another utter beauty.

Palate: This one delivers a much more direct and concentrated profile at first, dry leafy notes with bags of oranges, bitters, touches of nice oak, spices, chocolate and background phenols. After eight mints, tobacco, aniseed, cured meats and aged demerara rum. Actually this is one of those aged malts that seems to en-corporate stylistic aspects of old brandy and old rum, in the way that the best wood aged spirits tend to converge after several decades. With water:  water brings back these wonderful baked bread savoury notes, along with more eucalyptus, turmeric, cinnamon and aloe vera. Quite green and fresh now. The character of the sherry is so perfectly present and simultaneously restrained, perfect balance, just like the Intertrade.

Finish: Another long, resinous, waxy, crystallised and gloriously fruity beast. Lashings of salt, sinewy meats, hints of tar, boiler sheds, coal, wild flowers and natural honey notes.

Comments: I suspect this is from sister casks rather than a separate bottling of the same whisky. It feels bigger and slightly left field of the Intertrade. But it’s still just as brilliant, I’ll not waste time trying to split hairs, same score…

Score: 95/100

I should add that I forgot to take my hardrive home with me over Christmas, I had several photos relevant to this session on it so unfortunately I am having to scavenge photos from elsewhere on occasion. This one for instance I stole from Whiskyfun. Sorry Serge.

Highland Park 1956-1986. G&M for Intertrade. 216 bottles. 55.6%. 75cl.

Miracle of miracles I have the ‘sister’ HP bottling for Intertrade, how convenient. This is how I like to think the dialogue between the two companies went back in early 1986…

Intertrade: “Oh Mr G&M, thankyou so much for beautiful Highland Park bottling last year. It was so tasty. We already finish over half of bottles. We drink faster than we can make fake of empties.”

G&M: “Nae bother Mr Intertrade! Wud ye like another Highland Park. Mebe a 1956 this time?”

Intertrade: “Oh Mr G&M that would be most appreciated. Please this time remember to make seals a little less tight. In Italy it is tradition that we have bottles very easy to open. This way is more easy to refill bottle. Just for personal display you understand.”

G&M: “Nae bother big man. Yer dram is on its way!”

What is also interesting to note is that there are also 216 bottles of this one. This seems to be a typical trait of early single casks from the 60s-80s. Strengths and bottle numbers were often identical from cask to cask, remember the different casks of old Clynelish for Giacconne in 69 and 71, both the same strength. It may be simply that they couldn’t be bothered printing labels with too many differences or maybe they liked to bottle things in terms of numerical symmetry. Whatever the reason it seems curious.

Colour: Light rosewood.

Nose: This one has a much more overt sherry influence, a wonderful cocktail of roasted nuts, sultanas, cognac, beeswax, balsamico and dark stewed fruits. Behind that there are some stunning notes of cocoa, rancio, pipe tobacco, salted chocolate, pot-pourri and then the most beautiful ancient wax/peat combination.  Gets progressively greener and lusher with fantastic notes of green fruits, fruit syrups, lemon balm, limoncello and brilliant vigorous saltiness. This is my definition of perfect sherry. With water: now we have something like minted peat (or peated mint?), but otherwise it’s just more of everything that’s gone before only more earthy, luxurious and relaxed. One of those stunningly aromatic drams you could nose for hours.

Palate: The alcohol is surprisingly more pronounced here but the palate is very consistent with the nose. Loads of chocolate, pristine sherry, rancio, molasses, dark rum, stewed fruits, soft, herbal peat notes and a sharp lick of salt. The heat dies down a bit and we get lots of mustard seed, black pepper, bacon jam, espresso coffee, salt, tar and seaweed. Lets add water… Oh god, a fantastic and thick bed of mint, sherry, peat, salt and resinous fruit. A masterpiece. I’ll not bother going any further.

Finish: Drying, dark fruits, toasted cereal, soft sherry, gentle aged peat oils, salts… everything.

Comments: I always thought the 1955 was the best but I think I prefer this one. It’s not quite as complex as the 55 perhaps but it is a true masterpeice of poise, concentration, balance, harmony and execution of flavour. I adore this dram.

Score: 96/100

Another picture I had to steal. This one came from Geert Beero's Facebook photos, thanks Geert. The Dragon is evidently the one on the left. Sadly the 1958 and the John Scott's will not appear in today's tasting. Never mind, I suppose I'm in no position to complain about a lack of 1950s Highland Park.

Highland Park 1961-1997. ‘The Dragon’. Robertson of Kirkwall. 48.1%. 70cl. 

Another of these legendary and elusive ‘Dragons’. The 1961 is a little more ‘obtainable’ than the 73s and certainly than the old 25yo purely by virtue of being the most recently bottled, I imagine this will be my only opportunity to taste it before it vanishes into the mists of time. This one was opened and poured by the great Dominiek Bouckaert at Lindores Whisky Festival back in October. Many thanks Dominiek.

Colour: Dull gold

Nose: The most wonderfully fresh polished peat at first with natural sea salt crystals and coal smoke. Wonderfully industrial, old style and expressive. We’re not that far from the 1955 Intertrade it seems. Lots of herbs, oils, wax, menthol, tiny, complex touches of medicine and all kinds of delicate sub aromas that hint at honey, white fruits and minerals. A farmy contingent of stables, hay, dry dusty earthy notes and nice manure arrives all wrapped up in menthol throat sweets and fresh mint. Quite simply a beautiful aged coastal malt that still feels super fresh and wonderfully alive in the glass. Goes on with more of these classical herbal liqueur qualities such as notes of caraway, liquorice and aniseed, touches of freshly squeezed orange juice, fresh pumpkin, green peppercorns and a wonderfully green and rustic coastal aspect. With water: lemon drops, more mint, more salt, warm toasted cereals, melted butter, raisins and green peat.

Palate: Super resinous, polished, waxy and biting with a brilliant soft, heathery peat note. Green banana, ripe pear, apple peelings and olive oil. The nose was closer to the more lavish 50s style but the palate is really reminiscent of the more open, earthy and polished 60s style HPs. This one really reminds me of many old Duncan Taylor and John Scott’s casks from the 60s, a very transitional era example. Goes on with more leafy fruits, nectarines, delicate tropical notes, plums, apricots, eucalyptus sweeties and some subtle nutty notes. Cocoa, earl grey tea, distant bonfire smoke, mead, minty honey and white chocolate. I’m not sure this needs water at all but it’s cask strength so I suppose I’d better try and retain a vague sheen of professionalism. With water: salty peat, resinous and crystallised fruits, orange liqueur and more mint.

Finish: Long and full of mint, soft peats, little drying pockets of salt and citrus fruits. Basically more of everything that’s gone before.

Comments: Not as blinding as the 50s bottlings but then that is some serious competition. This still blows the majority of other bottlings right out of the water.

Score: 93/100

Highland Park 19yo OB. Italian import. Early 1980s. 43%. 75cl. 

This one was probably distilled sometime around the mid 1960s.

Colour: Amber

Nose: This is interesting, its a much quieter style of HP (probably due to the low abv) all on fresh butter, grass, heather, herbs and hints of tobacco and old cigar boxes. Another great example of pristine sherry, all on dried fruits, figs, nuts, furniture polish and wax with a more industrial coal and soot quality hovering about in the background. Brilliantly integrated wood an distillate characteristics. Nots of snickers, salted peanuts, seaweed, it’s growing more and more coastal with time, now brilliantly fresh and expressive. Those soft, almost fluffy peat notes get bigger in the background. Typical and brilliant HP.

Palate: Big for 43%, lots of that perfect sherry but also an unexpected creaminess, like buttermilk and vanilla cream with loads of roasted nuts, muesli, chocolate, treacle and dark fruits thrown into the mix. Buttered toast, mocha, hot chocolate, hints of tcp and mouthwash and then grassy and milky notes. A really lovely mix of oddly contrasting style here, they work beautifully together and make the whole thing very entertaining and compelling. More tobacco with woodsmoke, touches of brown sugar and a little juicy oak.

Finish: Long, delicately drying and full of dark chocolate, biscuits, mead, heather, honey, soft peats and little flacks of mint.

Comments: One of these great old officials that works brilliantly as an easy drinking but full flavoured whisky. This is a beautiful dram that shows brilliant sherry characters but also a wonderful and open Highland Park personality, great distillery character.

Score: 91/100

Highland Park 1966-1986. 20yo. Duthie’s for Corti of San Francisco. 86 US Proof. 75cl. 

An unusual and quite rare Us bottling of HP by the legendary Duthy & Co.

Colour: White wine

Nose: This is very different, the wood is much quieter, obviously refill, so this one is all on distillate attributes. It starts on bags of oysters, minerals, mustard seeds, white pepper, soft coastal notes and a nice combination of green, white and tropical fruits. It’s one of those industrial HPs with lots of motor oil, hessian, oily rag and boiler shed aromas. Other notes of lemon grass, camphor, green tea, soft medical touches and lanolin. It’s a quiet HP not such a beast like some of the older ones but the complexity and the quite genteel coastal/highland notes are particularly beautiful. Goes on with green fruits, grass and wax with further notes of lamp oil, wet pebbles and rainwater.

Palate: Not so different from some of the very good recent HPs by Duncan Taylor, Signatory and many of the German independents as well. All on oils, minerals, boiler sheds, exhaust fumes, smoke, camphor, resin and big citrus qualities. We call those ones a bit old school so I’d call this one a bit modern by comparison. I love how naked it is, the wood is almost totally silent in this one. Lots of acrid salt, lemon juice, light honey, white pepper, bandages, toothpaste, coal dust and fennel seeds. Hints of peppered mackerel, kippers, brine, white flowers, brown bread and mixed spice.

Finish: Quite long and lemony with bags of flints, pebbles, minerals, flowers, lemongrass, thyme, cereals and something a little vegetal towards the end.

Comments: This one is a little odd, if it has said distilled 1990 bottled 2010 I wouldn’t have batted an eyelid, maybe that says a lot about how Highland Park has or hasn’t changed in the past forty years (although we all know it has). I might be tempted to say I’m disappointed given the vintage but it is a very good whisky so I really shouldn’t get drawn into that whole expectations malarkey. A fascinating dram by any measure.

Score: 90/100

This is a sample from a sample so I didn't actually get to photograph the actual bottle. It is from an impeccable source though so I'm not too worried.

Highland Park 1972-1998 26yo. Signatory ’10th Anniversary’ series. Cask no: 1632. 213 of 252 bottles. 55.7%. 70cl.

Moving into the 1970s now, lets see what changes come our way..?

Colour: Gold

Nose: A slow moving wall of polish, fragrant oils and various honeys at first nosing which quickly gives way to earl grey tea, kelp, old rope, seashore and wet peat. One of these coastal/farmy HPs that are so gorgeous. Keeps on developing, moving quickly now into much fruitier territories, lots of kumquats, peaches, melon and nectarines with touches of ripe banana as well. Horse stables, hay, sack cloth, coal dust, putty, plums and quince jelly. Very controlled, expressive and quite beautiful, another of these perfect casks that just teases all the right aspects of the distillery character out into full glory. With water: a little more buttery now with notes of natural vanilla, whipped cream, white pepper and boiled cereals. Daisies, lanolin, olive oil and some lovely generic seashore notes.

Palate: Fruit syrups, drying polish, clean oak, mustard, hessian, chamomile tea, bay leaves, brown sugar and olive oil, a great and complex attack straight away. Becomes quickly coastal, fruity and mentholated with those background slightly metallic and phenolic aspects. Very reminiscent of some Springbanks from the same era actually. Some floral notes of geranium and juniper then sunflower seeds, dandelions, cinnamon, watercress and some pebbley mineral qualities. With water: now it becomes beautifully bready and savoury with lashings more olive oil, tiny flecks of fragrant soap in a very good way and quite ashy and lemony.

Finish: Longish but quietly so, savoury and citric with notes of herbs, lemongrass, cereals, touches of medicine, oils, green fruit and salt. Medium dry and very beautiful.

Comments: Not as as stellar as some of the others we’ve had so far but still a fantastic dram. It’s also interesting to see how the style sort of evolved again and is separate from the 50s and 60s distillates.

Score: 90/100

 

Highland Park 1973 ‘The Dragon’. Robertson of Kirkwall. Bottled April 1992. Cask 13307*. 58.9%. 75cl.

*Update. Thanks to Gunnar for getting me this info from an old letter he received from the Robertson Group. It seems my below assertion that there are three different 1973s may well be incorrect. I’ll do further research and get back to you.

Another incredibly rare ‘Dragon’. They were all privately owned casks bottled for the owner’s small shop on Orkney. Besides the 1961 and the old 25yo there are also at least two other 1973s, one at 56.4% and another at 56.6% that I tried back in 2009 and found to be utterly stunning so I have high hopes here. The 1973s were bottled sometime in the late 80s or very early 90s and were bottled in whatever cheap containers were to hand, usually bargain bin end wine bottles, as is the case here. No cask types or numbers or any other info than strength or vintage were ever stated as far as I know. This one was opened at our pre-sale tasting at Mulberry Bank Auctions the other week, I didn’t include it in that post because I was keen to hang onto it and put it in this line up.

Colour: Dark Amber, almost like blood orange.

Nose: Wow! An incredibly clean, pristine, coastal and aromatic sherry with loads of wax, preserved lemons, sea salt, brine, salted almonds, kelpie beer and eucalyptus oils. Goes on with notes of kippers, lamp oil, hessian, cumin, greengages, gooseberry jam and orange bitters. This is very reminiscent of the 56.6% bottling, sister casks maybe? Gets a little more medicinal with time, hugely expressive with many different kinds of tea, citrus and oil notes dancing about. Also some gentle peat and oily phenols floating about in the mix. Really fantastic. With water: more mineral qualities now with enhanced notes of graphite and pencil shavings, sheeps wool, touches of creosote and some startling notes of freshly shopped mint. Still tons of fresh citrus, oils, coastal notes and gentle, super clean sherry aspects.

Palate: Nervous, salty sherry with more wax, wood resin, dark fruits, citrus peel, crystalised fruits, seaweed, crab meat, dried herbs and salted liquorice(?). Wonderfully concise and in keeping with the nose, almost like a continuation of that profile. Mineral notes ,wet pebbles, lemon oil, a hint of balsamico, cured meats and something quite leathery as well. Like the greatest Highland Parks this seems to be a real all rounder. With water: salted butter, green fruits, dundee cake, heather ale, camphor, green tea, lemon juice on oysters, spicy calamari, lemon grass, coriander, lime juice, fragrant spices and chilli. You could make ceviche with this whisky! Goes on and on…

Finish: Super long, drying, utterly coastal and fresh with all kinds of black and green olive notes as well, you couldn’t fall asleep while you were still tasting this, it’s so lively and spellbinding. What a great dram!

Comments: This is equal to if not better than the 56.6% version I tried a couple of years ago as far as I’m concerned. A hidden masterpiece.

Score: 93/100

Highland Park 1973-2003 30yo. Jack Weibers. Cask 8396. Bottle 014 of 168. 58.7%. 70cl.

Colour: Straw gold

Nose: This is very different from the Dragon, a beautiful tableau of lemon juice, ashes, minerals and seashore notes. Perfectly pristine, pin sharp and alive with a vibrant coastal freshness, pure island whisky. Then some savoury hints of brown bread and yeast with lime juice, chives and oysters with hints of sage stuffing (seasonal again) and black pepper. Lots of limes, kiwis, green apples, grass, flints and wet pebbles. Develops along lines of green fruits, bitters, touches of orange liqueur, more salty dried herbs and pasatry. Brilliant. With water: this one swims beautifully, its full on lush, green, softly peaty and fresh now. Still beautifully coastal but with a more relaxed mineral quality and lots of elegant fruitiness.

Palate: Big crisp saline notes with big bags more lime and lemon juice all over fresh oysters and smoked mussels. Fresh coriander, shallots, muesli, coal, tar, vanilla cream, and salt and vinegar crisps. Still very ashy and nicely drying with notes of sandal wood, cereals, shellfish, green peat, black peppercorns, taramasalata, cumin and smoky bacon. With water: more balance now between savoury, coastal and farmyard qualities, notes of motor oil, seashore, hessian, camphor, freshly chopped parsley, riesling and buttered toast. Delicious stuff.

Finish: Long, lemony, ashy and mineral, basically full circle back to the beginning. A glorious pantheon of metal, phenols, citrus, salt, fragrant wood notes and green fruits.

Comments: Another of these perfect ‘background’ casks that allows the distillery a huge voice but simultaneously provides it great maturity. This was probably bottled at its peak if you ask me. Beautiful old coastal Highland Park, my favourite style from this distillery, it’s so achingly evocative of its birthplace.

Score: 93/100

Highland Park 1975 32yo. OB for World Duty Free. Cask 6596. 50%. 70cl.

About time we tried an official I think.

Colour: Gold-Amber

Nose: We’re not far from the standard official 30yo here, lots of dried nuts, figs, resin, pine sap, putty and cedar wood. Some very beautiful influence from the wood but it manages to retain a keen freshness and there are some great fruit qualities in there as well. Lots of green fruits, crystallised citrus peel, bakes apples, banana bread, menthol and hints of aged cognac. Evidently this has come from another very good sherry cask. More of these typical notes of warm Moroccan spices and preserved lemons in brine. A nose that’s both classy and classic. Lets try with water… wow, super fresh now, a gentle lapping seashore (dear lord!) with all kinds of soft citrus qualities like lemon balm, orange liqueur, chocolate limes, vanilla cream and heather.

Palate: Warm and fruity on delivery, greengages, plum jam, muesli, dark fruits, prune juice, fig rolls, lemon wax and then lots of polish, candle wax, hessian and minerals. Goes on with turpentine, olive oil, fruit ice cream, cranachan, caramelised oatmeal and touches of balsamico. This one walks a lovely tightrope between savoury and sweet, lots of nectar and honey and gentle creamy qualities but also some of these typical and wonderfully savoury notes of brown bread and pastry. With water: richly resinous now, bags of pine needles, beeswax polish, dunnage, paint and stewed dark fruits. A great swimmer.

Finish: Long, earthy, soft, herbaceous, minty, oily, gently phenolic, coastal and mineral

Comments: Another great old HP, one that swims very well despite a natural strength that’s bordering on being relatively low. Great stuff.

Score: 91/100

Another pinched image. I stole this one from Diego Sandrin, sorry Diego.

Highland Park. 1977-1988. Duthie for Samaroli ‘Fragments’ Orkney. 648 Bottles. 50%. 70cl. 

Part of a famous series by the legendary Mr Samaroli. This is the youngest of the flight so it should be an interesting variant from all the others.

Colour: Runny Honey

Nose: This is heavier and peatier than the others at first nosing. Lots of coal, graphite oil, oily phenols, grist, barbecue smoke and quite a big presence of wax an mineral notes. Very old school, almost old Clynelishesque in its waxiness. Obviously that old young whisky style is something that disappears in the cask after about 15-20 years as it’s a style that is missing from all the others that we’ve already had where wood obviously altered it quite distinctly. This one has that young biting old style wax and mineral profile well intact. Lots of brine, kelp, smoked malt, soft medicine and old rope. Lemon oil, boiler sheds, farmyards, coal smoke and kippers.

Palate: Massive and hugely old style delivery with loads of lemon drops, wax, hessian, fresh citrus notes and bags of ashes and minerals. Really lively and beautiful. Continues along the same lines with camphor, tea tree oil, green tea, eucalyptus oil, wood resin, bonfire smoke and smoked mussels. Hints of strawberry liqueur, apple sauce, orange bitters and white flowers with more of these coastal/industrial qualities abound. A great and potent young Highland Park, one that shows the distillery’s peatier side really nicely.

Finish: good length with more of these really assertive mineral and wax notes, smoked wax (?), green peat, sea salt, pebbles, wild flowers and mead.

Comments: A great one. Loads of character, flavour and intensity. Although what is most fascinating is the way it shows a much more intense old style profile than many of the others, like said above, it seems that those ‘old highland’ characteristics you can find in old young malts is something that can diminish with greater time in wood. I wonder what those old Intertrade bottling from the mid 1950s tasted like at 15 years old rather that 30. We’ll never know but it’s nice to wonder.

Score: 92/100

Highland Park 1978-2011. OB for Global Travel Retail. 47.8%. 70cl.

And finally… this one was done this year for duty free and probably comes from a vatting of at least two casks.

Colour: Rich Amber

Nose: This is completely different from all the others. Firstly there is a much greater wood presence here, lots of extraction, shoe polish, pencil shavings, milk chocolate, vanilla cream and some odd vegetal qualities like over cooked asparagus and turnip. This really reminds me of my own living cask, in that it feels like the whisky has been over-stewed in far too active wood for too long. Some spices like cloves and nutmeg with other notes of cheap herb liqueur and celery. Really a bit odd this one. It’s not bad but it does struggle in comparison to all the others. I wasn’t going to add water but I think we’ll try it after all just in case… water seems to help nicely on the nose, there is more freshness, more greenery and even a few coastal hints. Although the woodiness is still quite evident.

Palate: Big tanicity at first from the wood, far too excessive if you ask me. Raw polish, wood shavings, dust, oak lacquer, stale mead, more turnips and parsnips, maybe some brussell sprouts as well (seasonal again), camphor, pine sap, cold tea, more tannins, sawdust and raisins. With water: bitter chocolate, some herbs, quite a big astringency and more boiled vegetable notes. Nettle tea, soda bread, cheap rum and finally a whiff of mint.

Finish: Fairly short and drying with a kind of empty tannic feel about it.

Comments: This no where near the giddying heights we started at. Did Highland Park suffer too much under the strains of modernisation by 1978? Probably not, I’ve had other wonderful 78s, I think this one has just spend a good decade too long in wood. You may say it’s a shame to finish on this one but actually it’s rather nice to be brought back down to earth after so many stellar drams. Maybe this is the cold turkey, morning after come down of boxing day compared to the mental festive frenzy of the 50s and 60s masterpieces. Anyway, it’s not a bad whisky, just too oaky, to the point of being detrimental I think. But if you’re a fan of wood y whiskies you’ll probably really enjoy it.

Score: 81/100

So, you’ve made it to the end. Well done. Or maybe you just skipped all the hot air and blether and looked at the scores, that’s fine too, I’m just pleased you made the effort.

After all that I’d like to mention briefly that all but two of these whiskies (the Dragons) were opened, poured and provided(at various stages) by the Highland Park gathering legend that is Oliver Humbrecht. Many thanks Olivier, keep them coming ;)

And with that I bid you a merry, drunken, glorious, dazzling, filling, loving and joy soaked Christmas. May all you presents be liquid, your casks be single, your strengths be cask, your colours natural, your filtrations barrier only, your bottles ancient and your lovers young. From all of us here at Whisky Online have a wonderful Christmas, thankyou to anyone and everyone who has supported us throughout the past year and we hope to see you again in 2012. Now stop reading this pish, turn up the music and go pour yourself a large one!

Angus. 25/12/2011

Vengeance Is Peat Part 4

16 Dec

Seeing as this series is in danger of becoming the ‘Rocky’ of whisky blog posts I think this will almost certainly be the last one. After Port Ellen, Ardbeg and Lagavulin it seems logical that we will cover Laphroaig, the final Islay southerner. So unless someone wants to send me a stash of old 73/74 Longrow or early 70s Brora samples then I don’t think we’ll see parts five or six anytime soon.

Anyway, without further prattle and ado…

Laphroaig 20yo. Douglas Laing. OMC. Sherry Hogshead. 50%. 70cl.

Had this sample kicking about for some time, sadly no image to go with it I’m afraid. I adore sherried Laphroaigs though so I’m keen to try this one.

Colour: Dark amber

Nose: A strange kind of grizzly fruitiness at first. Very Laphroaig, loads of tincture, iodine, tcp and other medicinal qualities but with a lovely metallic edge like wet iron and steel wool. Smoky bacon, dried herbs and salt, bacon crisps? Flat cola, peat, cola cubes, hot tar, rope, root beer, wet earth and hints of dark rum. Quite a superlative nose really, great distillery character but with that classic, surprisingly clean, sherry slant. Unctuous, leafy, salty and thick with big notes of liquorice, key lime pie, lemon curd, wax, hessian, flints and other assorted mineral notes. Gets quite briny with a thick and turfy peat quality with some nice dried dark fruits. Great stuff, very enjoyable.

Palate: Massive, syrupy peat on delivery with big drying sherry right behind it, reminds me a little of some old peated Glen Gariochs (high praise indeed) with more earth, dried mushrooms, tcp, mouthwash, liquorice, charcoal, barbecue sauce and some lovely green fruits. Very medicinal, lots of medical sub complexities with big herbal liqueur qualities as well. Baked apples, smoked mussels, creosote, cola syrup, tobacco and seaweed soup. A perfect balance of sweet and dry.

Finish: Lemon curd again, fresh oysters, brine, menthol toothpaste, hessian, creosote, tar, tcp, wax and fading green fruits.

Comments: I really love Laphroaig in sherry and this one doesn’t disappoint. Displays the very best attributes of the modern style and is probably helped a lot by a top notch sherry cask. Clean, vibrant, resinous and powerful. Douglas Laing seem to have a had quite a few of these fresh sherry cask Laphroaigs from the late 1980s recently. Lets hope there are still plenty to come because they’ve all been great so far.

Score: 91/100

Laphroaig 1981-2008. 27yo. OB. Five oloroso sherry casks. 736 bottles. 56.6%. 70cl. 

Huge thanks to Nick for this one.

Colour: Dark Rosewood

Nose: A different level of sherry entirely. Super thick and intense with a much more subdued level of peat. At first its all on fresh tar and concentrated aromas of charcoal, dates, prunes, figs and other dark fruits. Lots of sultanas stewed in cognac, furniture polish, salted brazil nuts, chocolate, molasses, natural caramel and hot fudge. A very rare instance where the sherry has taken over from the peat, quite a potent cask selection indeed. Definitely need time. With a bit of patience it starts to become much more tropical and accessible. There is also a much bigger coastal presence, lots of wet rocks, seaweed, beach bonfires, iodine and kipper notes. Some resin, wax and putty as well with a slowly encroaching aged peat quality in the background. Very earthy, dry, thick and syrupy. Notes of cola and gomme syrups and something like redcurrant jam. With water: a tropical fruit and nut cocktail now. Lots of soft tropical notes on top of crushed walnuts, pecans and salted almonds. Then lighter vegetal qualities, more tar, geraniums and salted dark chocolate.

Palate: Neat it is a powerhouse of a Laphroaig, orange bitters, peated marmalade (what) burnt wood, barbecue sauce, masses of molasses (ha), herb liqueur, rancio, wild mushrooms, cola cubes again, bacon, brown sauce, tar, lashings of medicine and a warehouse full of dark, fruit laden sherry. Drying and moist like swallowing a whole Guinness cake. Loads of mixed nuts, phenols, quince jelly, muesli, juniper, gentian root, root beer, coal, creosote, salt cured meats and bovril. A monster of a Laphroaig, but more so because of the sherry than the peat it has to be said. With water: ok it’s softer but it is still very drying, thick and syrupy. Lots of fat eucalyptus notes, seaweed, tar, smoked fish and black pepper. A smattering of mineral notes and then more leafy fruitiness, orange and lemon notes with bay leaves, thyme and ginseng tea.

Finish: Incredibly long, like waiting for the credits to roll on Return Of The King. You practically have to scrape your mouth clean of peated sherry afterwards. Buy a new toothbrush!

Comments: In any other whisky this level of sherry would be too much for me and I’d be tempted to mark it down but the sheer power and force of personality that Laphroaig possess seems to have held everything together brilliantly, although I doubt these casks would have made it to 30. Fantastic, a whisky for those that like them black and potent (unless you’re a Loch Dhu fan in which case you’re on the wrong blog). Anyway, a real power house dram, intense, extreme and brilliant.

Score: 94/100

Laphroaig 1964-1981. Berry Brothers & Rudd. Sherry cask. 43%. 75cl.

Sadly no picture for this one. A rightly legendary bottling from Berry Bros.

Colour: Amber/Brown

Nose: A stunning combination of resinous peat, crystalised and tropical fruits and perfect sherry. This is followed by super dense coastal notes, raisins, wet earth, coal dust, aged cognac, smoked almonds, marzipan, hints of rancio and a little aged antiseptic. Just brilliant, one of those perfect noses. Ancient dry phenols, peat, wax and little dustiness. Then fresh oysters, preserved lemons, smoked mussels, camphor, and some phenomenal vegetal and herbal notes. I could go on but I might never taste it, a staggering nose.

Palate: Enormous, fat, drying, dusty, organic peat. Completely covers and engages every part of the palate, then an avalanche of tropical fruits, an incredible delivery. Develops along more complex lines with dark brown sugar, old vanilla, honey, camphor, pine resin, huge herbaceous notes and a big growing saltiness. Notes of salted beef, sarsaparilla, gentian eau de vie, root beer, dark chocolate, seaweed and yet more drying peats. Lets stop this wonderful, wonderful madness.

Finish: Long and filled with waxy peat, herbs, vegetal, earthy and coastal qualities. Then finally a mineral and beautiful fade.

Comments: One of those bottlings that makes you remember why you’re into whisky in the first place. Massive at 43% in a way that only Laphroaig seems to be able to pull off. A masterpiece of complexity, poise, intensity, length and balance. Brilliant!

Score: 95/100

 

A legendary old Samaroli bottling of Laphroaig

Laphroaig 1970-1986. Duthie for Samaroli. 720 bottles. 54%. 75cl. 

No much needs saying about this legendary bottling. Eternal gratitude to Patrick for these last two drams.

Colour: Straw Gold

Nose: A mesmerising combination of seashore, coastal and fresh peat aromas. Hugely complex with lashings of citrus, oysters, salt, iodine, mint, kippers, white pepper and old rope. Develops onto tar, seaweed, coal dust and, after time, luscious notes of fresh lime juice. Then eucalyptus oils, more pristine saltiness and massive notes of brine that lend the whole nose a stunning freshness. Just incredible really. Perfectly dry and a complex with exceptionally elegant notes of minerals, smoked tea, old style peat and, eventually, fruit. The fruit is perfectly tropical but also surprisingly resinous and crystallised which lends the whole profile an extra layer of depth and complexity. With water: some super salty blue cheese, lemon juice, papaya, coal dust again, more minerals, buttered toast, herbs, shellfish and peat oils.

Palate: A tropical whirlwind. Just epic amounts of passion fruits, guavas, greengages, melons and lemons. Absolutely brilliant delivery. Further notes of fragrant smoke, black pepper, smoked cereals, tar, green peat and motor oil. Still massively coastal and balanced. With water: Not too much change, the coastal aspects got a bit bigger till they’re almost equal to the fruits. Layers and layers of complexity that I can’t even begin to get into now, salty, tropical, oily, peaty and medicinal in myriad ways, it just keeps on going…

Finish: No comment!

Comment: An utter masterpiece. This is the sort of bottle that really sets the bar for all others to be measured against. At least I think it does.

Score: 96/100

Well that ties up this little series of masterpieces quite nicely. It’s been a pretty devastating path of uninterrupted peaty beauty, one that leads only to the point where you could instantly start again or go for something new and equally mind blowing. We’re all searching for the new, the unknown bottling, all seeking the next hidden masterpiece. Sadly, as with all whiskies of this calibre, that is not always an option and one day, probably in the not too distant future, it will stop being an option for every body. These bottles wont last forever, the liquid will inevitably die, although, long before that happens, they will already be out of grasp to any buyer. When there are only three and then two bottles left of the Laphroiag 1970 or the Port Ellen 1969, what will happen then? I think distillers should be made to taste whiskies like these ones, if the people that make whisky don’t know how good it can be, if they don’t fully comprehend the organoleptic heights to which these spirits can soar then how can we ever hope to make whisky this good again. There are many who say it can’t be done but that is complete baldershit if you ask me. It is purely a recipe, a process governed by the whim of chemistry and practice. Great whiskies like these could be made again. It just needs someone with the will power to do it, the understanding of what made the greatest whiskies so great and the balls, madness and sheer bloody mindedness to do it.

Oh and money. Lots of money. Perhaps therein lies the problem. Perhaps someone should donate a sample of Ardbeg Kingsbury 67 to Bill Gates and see if he fancies taking a punt on funding a distillery…? Just an idea.